Forum Activity for @skip

jp,

You will be increase the tension from ~ 20 lbs [calculated] to ~27 lb according to d'addario string tension chart pdf. Their chart shows the .014 going up to ~38 lbs for an 'f' on a 26 1/4 banjo vsl. You could also replace the A with one of the melody strings or install a new, additional, .012 string.

Maybe it's just me yet I would not try to take a .014 string up to D from an A. 

Aye, well, I didn't understand that from your first post, it's true.  As Skip says, tune the Middle Drone A string UP to the same d as your melody string(s).  A 14 ga string on 26"-27" VSL should be able to tune to d, because you can play that same d on the 10th fret.  Then your tuning will be Bagpipe D -- that is Ddd

Tune the 'A' to the same as the melody, dd [middle 'A' to 'd']. You're tuning then will be spelled as Ddd [or Dddd], bass to melody, in MD speak. If you loosen the 'A' to 'D' it will be pretty 'floppy'. The .014 will feel tighter than the 2 melody strings though if those are smaller.

well maybe i was not clear.

my dulcimer is tuned to ddAD

i want it in bag pipe all D's across the board

the middle string presently is at A.... a .14 gage will it go up to D with out breaking

OR should i tune it down to D.

You may be looking at the tuning "backwards".  Dulcimer tunings these days are specified from the Bass to the Melody string and we only ever mention the doubled melody string(s) if they are actually tuned differently.  

The Bass string is D, your A string is the Middle drone, and the d string(s) are the Melody string(s) an octave higher than the Bass. 

On a 26-27" VSL, a 14 ga should be easily tuned to the 5th above the Bass string -- A.  Fret the Bass string at the 4th fret, and sound the note -- that's what you tune the Middle Drone string to -- A.  Your Melody strings should be a bit lighter gauge -- 12s.  Tune them to d an octave above the Bass string D.

BTW -- Bagpipe Tuning is defined as a Bass string tuned D (for example) and all the other strings tuned an octave above -- Ddd for example, not DAd.  DAd is the Mixolydian Modal tuning.

i mentioned i built some Cigar box guitars... here are a couple.....the black (Punch) one i built for

my grandson.... funny thing is when he received it he had punched a wall screwed up his

picking hand.....

the red one (American) i built for my son.... they are all slide guitars tuned GDG

 another view.jpeg - 100KB

VSL = 26 3/4"

ddAD

the "A" string (.14) can i tune it up to D or should i tune it to D below A?

When i get the "A" string up to C i must admit i get a butt pucker feeling and

chicken out.

I have arthritis in my picking thumb it is hard to hold a plain, thin pick comfortably for very long.  Have tried a bunch of picks but the one I now use is the best for me that I have found.  It is called a Mojo Grip from PickWorld.  Delrin  picks in various thicknesses in a rubber sleeve that covers the top 60% of the pick.  

The rubber keeps the pick from being slippery.  It also provides a thicker pick which I find easier to hold.  It adds some cushioning which seems to help.

I believe you can order just the grip part separately to slid over your favorite pick.

It works for me but they say "your mileage may vary."

I use a variety of picks, but my "go to" pick is a Herdim three point pick. After that I use a V-pick but not the Bing ultra-lite. I use a different shape and it come is red as well as clear. Over the years I've used picks cut from plastic milk containers, margarine containers, Cool Whip tops, and credit cards. I've also used thin strips of wood and leather as well as turkey and goose feathers. I choose the pick according to the type and style of music I am playing. There really is no right or wrong pick. It is just what works best for you.

Ken

"The dulcimer sings a sweet song."

I planned to try the picks with the cork circle.I really haven't had much of a problem with a pick flying off. This is just setting the pick down on my desk or table. It blends right in! The first picks I got were camo colored and I can find those anywhere. I can be looking right at the clear acrylic one and not see it. Never considered that particular problem but I think I may have to stick with picks that have a little color to them.

I really like the Dava 6924 Grip Tip pick.  Very easy to hold on to and variable stiffness; works great for me. 

One of the ways to keep a pick from flying off and getting lost is to tether it to a ring of leather or other soft material that you slip on one of your fingers. Even a slice of a finger off an old glove would work.  Some people crochet them or make a ring of beads strung on elastic cord.  If it goes flying it won't get too far!

There is one problem with the V-Pick that I didn't think about. it is a bad idea to have a clear pick! I lose it all the time, in fact, I can't find it right now. It just blends right in with whatever it's on. I am going to be picking up more picks soon. 

Hi JP,  Dusty Turtle has answered your questions.  (thanks Dusty!)

A couple additional details I'll add-  

I just created a new discussion outlining the simple steps to add an Audio file (your own Mp3 file, or soundcloud) to this site, see here:

https://fotmd.com/forums/forum/site-questions-how-do-i/32804/how-to-add-an-audio-mp3-or-soundcloud-clip-to-fotmd

A good way to learn your way around here is to click on the links along the top of the navigation bar on every page.  It shows the main areas.  They pertain to what 'everyone' posts.  Another good way is to click on the links you find on your own profile page... they pertain more to content that YOU post.

Do look through the Site Questions forum Dusty linked to.  It contains other threads that have been asked and answered, like: How do I post a Video?

And do look through the Site Rules Dusty linked to as well.  There it explains more answers to your questions, like: What kind of videos are allowed?  Reading the site rules will help you avoid posting something that moderators will remove. 

Lastly, because this thread is all about how to use this site, I'm now going to move it into the Site Questions Forum, so that others will benefit from it as well.   Thanks!  

Terry, I believe you were and are a good dancer too    Have seen the dance groups in their precious and traditional costumes? And for sure you found the "Schuhplattler" in Bavaria quite funny...

@jp, before I answer your question, let me point you to the place to ask questions about the site.  Click on Forums, and the first one is " Site Questions: How Do I . . ? " That is the place to post questions about how to do things here. In fact, before you pose your own question, you should peruse the existing discussions to see if someone has already asked the same question.

Now . . . yes, of course you can post your own music.  You can post videos from YouTube or Vimeo and audio files directly to FOTMD or via SoundCloud.  There are some rules, though. You can only post tunes that are in the public domain or that you wrote yourself and you must actually be playing or singing on the piece you post.  Please read the Site Rules to make sure whatever you post here is acceptable.

To add an audio or video file, start from your own home page, click "audio" or "video" and then the "+" sign. It should be self-explanatory, but if you have problems, you know where to ask for help.

I would be interested in hearing your music. So, yes. You need to follow the rules of which include the music must be in the public domain and you must perform it. Click on you name (it's in blue in upper right hand corner next to the search symbol. Just click on you name, not the drop down menu. You will find a button that says "Audio." Click on it and then on the + sign to add audio files. You can do that from either Soundcloud or a file on your computer. Choose the file and the click upload. Then click on "create." That should do it.

Ken

"The dulcimer sings a sweet song."

i am still not sure of the functions of this site.... i am just learning as  i go so my question is....

can you upload your music on this site? if so would anyone like to hear a selection from my (out of print)

CD? a Hurdy Gurdy selection?  if so say yes and please tel me host to do it...

thank you.

I was never been able to play a jaw harp as fast as I could tap my foot, because I was concerned about injuring my teeth and lips if the harp got away on me, probably because I didn't know what I was doing. This little dance video prompted me to go and dig out my old harp and twang for a bit. Good memories.

Lisa, very interesting to see and hear the gent playing the Jew's harp or jaw harp or mouth harp. This is an "old fashioned" instrument that we seldom see anymore. Thank you.

Strumelia - I very much enjoyed these dances - one does not often see such sensitive, elegant and "musical" (musikalisch) dancers.

When this is all done, I'd like to play that dulcimer with someone.  It's soooooo beautiful.  A rosette on the bottom like the design on the top would work very well and might even play a little louder. I do a lot of scroll work on my instruments....but the little darling hearts on the top are really tiny...I could do them, but maybe not as perfectly as those are done.  Ask Bob where he gets his lazer rosettes and maybe have one made the same as the top.  Keep us "in tune" (pun intended) to what you decide to do with that lovely dulcimer.  aloha, irene

Just a quick reply- If you finally come to the conclusion - after long research and consideration- that you must physically alter the instrument to access the repairs, I thing Irene's idea is excellent!!  Cut a very nice hole in the bottom of the dulcimer to access repair work and use your creativity in plugin the hole with something faithful to the design of the instrument (i.,e., a pretty rosette with hearts).

Many minds at work can achieve anything.

I see two issues with your repair.  The first is getting the glue to where you want it, the second is holding down the loose brace while the glue sets. 

Steady your nerves.

For the glue,  find a dentists mirror (Dollar Store, Harbor Freight, eBay) that will fit in a soundhole near the brace you want to glue.  Shine a small flashlight into the soundhole on the other side of the instrument.  This should allow you to see the loose brace.  Shape two curved pieces of wood that are long enough to reach the loose brace.  Use one to prop the brace away from the back far enough to insert glue.  Take the other and put a small enough drop of glue so that it stays on when you reach into the instrument to place the glue under the bridge.  Repeat until you believe enough glue is under the brace to hold it.  Pull out both pieces of wood.

Halfway home.

Fully insert the strongest of the shaped pieces of wood and flip it with a tweezer so that it  curves up with one end resting on top of the brace.  Take a dowel that fits through the sound hole and rest it on the wood piece.  Take a clamp and gently clamp down on the dowel until the brace is in place.

Walk away and let it sit for a couple days.

For better instructions, look up gluing a loose brace on stewmac.com.  They will show you how to do it on a guitar, which is easier because it has a larger body and a bigger soundhole.

Be patient, don't give up.

Thanks Bob and Irene.  I don't have a clue what the collector value of this Carstanjen would be.  It was sold at eBay auction and considering the current market, I probably paid too much for it.  But, I'd been looking for a courting dulcimer and this was about the coolest I've seen.  It's obvious issues (and the intonation problems were not obvious of course) scared off other bidders so I got it as the sole bidder at the opening price.  I've done what I could to coax life out of it and to this point all set up efforts have been reversible.  It has really nice voices on both sides.  I tuned one side DAdd, the other GEgg (i.e. baritone) with the thought that the baritone side E could optionally be dropped to a D for a "new ionian" D tuning.  As previously stated, the rattle can be pretty much avoided if picking or plucking is confined to the strum hollow.  So I'm not in a big hurry to get the job done and am quite willing to wait for some sound advice before dealing with my "resonater dulcimer" further - beyond playing it of course.

I've followed some some threads on John Maxwell dulcimers and its ironic how much I can empathize with the push and pull between obvious craftsmanship coupled with an intonation nightmare - especially now that I recently obtained a Maxwell myself.

I finally met a local player/builder/repairman that I will be meeting and I'm sure we'll put this Carstanjen through its paces as a duo.  This guy has built courting dulcimers and says the difference in single versus two players playing is incredible.

Matt Berg, has got me pondering if maybe a fix could be accomplished through the existing sound holes after all.  I've got some ideas but will hold them for now.  I hope he jumps in here again as I'm wondering what he had in mind.

I loved reading all the write up of this man. wow.  It would be a shame to cut all those darling hearts out to make a round hole to fix the braces, but those braces can BUZZZZZ.  bummers. I'd suggest maybe a possible nice made heart UNDERSIDE of this beautiful instrument.  THEN fix the braces.  Best of all I'd follow Bob's suggestions.  aloha, irene

What an amazing and even historic instrument! And that seems like a big issue to fix. Just curious, Jim, have you talked to a professional instrument restorer?  A quick Google search discovered the Smithsonian Museum Conservation Institute  https://www.si.edu/mci/english/learn_more/taking_care/musinst.html

They can give you leads to conservators in various locations in the US and Canada. Not sure if it's financially feasible but they may have some good ideas for you.

Best wishes for your project.

~Bob

Thanks for the reply Matt.  "Thump testing" was telling me the braces are about three-quarters the way between the fourth and fifth fret on both necks (i.e. symmetrical, as one would expect).  I inserted a curved piece of insulated solid core wire through the large sound holes to feel along the underside of the top and found the braces just 1 3/4" from the center of the heart going toward the middle of the dulcimer body.  I did the same through the central "rosette" and got 3 3/4" for both braces.  This agrees with the "thump testing".

The two large hearts in the bouts are 25mm wide x 15mm "valley to valley" (1" x 9/16').  The small hearts both in the bouts and the central circle are 19mm x 11 mm (3/4" x 7/16").  The central rosette is 16mm in the widest dimension and is 12mm in the shortest (11/16" x 1/2").

Taking a stab at reading your mind, yes I can get an endoscope in there and I am thinking of getting one for this and other projects.  I was somewhat optimistic that the bout holes are such short distance away from potential access points.  But those sound holes would seem too limiting for the work that needs to be done - I think.  If you know better, clue me in - I'd rather leave the sound board intact.

The contemplated option of a circle cut around the central heart pattern would give me a 3 1/4" diameter access hole to work with.  Hell, I could get my hand through that to apply glue and install temporary force-fit struts between glued braces and the bottom.  I'd fashion a jig to temporally affix to the central sound holes that would in turn provide a pivot post for an arm fitted with a razor knife blade to do the cutting - so the cut would be less than 1/16 wide. I'd probably have to widen that cut a bit for the decorative binding circle that would dress up the sound hole disk when it was reinstalled. To spice things up I'm even contemplating installing an ivory colored O-Port in the large hole then press fitting the sound-hole disk into that. This should provide some awesome resonance.  The down-side is that this access hole cutting scheme involves non-reversible modifications that may have a detrimental affect on the instrument's collector value (if any).

I would entertain back removal, but as previously stated, this task appears daunting considering the dulcimer's size, shape and under-scroll shelves.  Here's a more complete set of "as found" photos that better describe what I'm up against. The file also includes some information regarding the builder.

Sorry for the long-winded post, but then again, I'm asking for information that goes well beyond a yes/no answer.

Mikael Carstanjen 1975 (comp).pdf - 2.7MB

Hmmm...I own both Ron's and Bonnie's.  Maybe I should do a test.  I'd want to contact Ron Gibson, also, to see if he could tell me the original cost of his dulcimer, since I got it used.  My Bonnie Carol's are both used, too, for that matter, and they both sound great....and I prefer their sound to the Gibsons.  But, there again, is the preference for a particular sound that is so personal--and some days I don't even like the sound of my favorite dulcimers!  What's up with that?!

no fiber washers... curved base of tuner, that fits into curved recess of headstock....

i hope i explained that right.

"Robert: Most small builders like myself build as a labor of love for the dulcimer. I think I speak for other builders on this site when I say the compensation i get is seeing the joy people get from playing my dulcimers...Robert"

I agree completely.  And, I just can't charge a 'friend' customer for a dulcimer, I ask they make a donation to Habitat for Humanity based on the value I would have charged a 'stranger' customer. To me that makes it a 'win/win'. ....Harry

It only takes $50 worth of wood to make the finest sounding dulcimer. The rest is care and craftsmanship. Dulcimer are the most grossly undervalued of all handmade stringed instruments.  BC dulcimer price reflects the true value if one were to build dulcimers as a business.

Most small builders like myself build as a labor of love for the dulcimer. I think I speak for other builders on this site when I say the compensation i get is seeing the joy people get from playing my dulcimers...Robert

Jim,

Could you be more specific on the location of the loose bracing?  Also approximation dimensions of the heart sound holes.

A while back I purchased a Mikael Carstanjen Courting Dulcimer.  It's what you'd call a "project dulcimer".  It had some intonation issues that I have successfully addressed.  But there is apparently some loose bracing and I'm somewhat at odds as to how to proceed.  The attached photo file should explain the past, present, and proposed future better than I can here.  I'm hoping for some feedback on what my best options are.   Thanks in advance!

Carstanjen Courting Dulcimer Repair (compress).pdf - 242KB